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     November 7, 2009

      
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TAISHO CHIC
WHEN AESTHETICS COLLIDE

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“Japan likes to take in new things and improve upon them,” says Yoshiko Kakuda, a Bay Area Japanese art expert. During the reign of Emperor Taisho (1912-1926), western goods such as luxury cars, celluloid, and steel, and western cultural attitudes, especially the emergence of the modern girl (or moga), were soaked up by this trading island nation, particularly by the urban elite and, perhaps not surprisingly, particularly by women. The resulting conflict and integration of western and traditional Japanese cultural values are explored in the exhibition Taisho Chic: Japanese Modernity, Nostalgia, and Deco, at the Berkeley Art Museum from September 14 through December 23. Artists and designers made traditional block prints depicting sexually alluring women, folding screens of stainless steel and glass, and kimonos with contemporary reinterpre-tations of motifs such as the dragonfly and chrysanthemum. Combining two aesthetics in beautiful if sometimes forced ways, this period presaged the sophisticated Japanese modernism to come. Public programs at BAM associated with the exhibition include:

Modern Girls (Unless They’re French) Don’t Wear Kimono, a lecture by anthropologist Liza Dalby on the period when the kimono was fading in Japan but taken up by fashion designers in Paris, London, and New York, September 25, 3:00 p.m.

Kimono Demonstration, with a focus on bold Taisho designs, by Japanese clothing collector Joanna Mest, October 16, 3:00 p.m.

Modern Girl in East Asia, a panel discussion with several scholars examining the moga, and related developments during the Taisho period in China and Korea, November 13, 2:00 p.m.


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(Left) Tipsy, Kobayakawa Kiyoshi, woodblock print, 1930. This woman was likely a professional hostess in one of the western-style bars that grew up as an alternative to traditional teahouses. Her makeup, cigarette, and pose suggest the modern, sexualized woman feared by traditionalists. Some women lost their jobs for wearing makeup or were arrested for applying it in public.

(Right) New Carleton Dancers, Shanghai, Yamamura Köka, woodblock print, 1924. After the Great Earthquake
of 1923 in Tokyo, Shanghai, with its fashionable nightlife, became a social beacon for the cosmopolitan woman. Here,
the dancing women, with cropped hair and chic Western clothing, flow like jazz.

Taisho_three_sistersweb.jpg
Three Sisters, Yamakawa Shühö, four-panel screen, 1936.
These three models, who were students of the artist, posed in luxurious kimonos, suggesting traditional Japanese femininity, next to a luxury car built in the West. The title refers to Chekhov’s famous play, first performed in Japan in 1932.

Taisho_two_girlsweb.jpg?
Two Girls by the Sea, Kafü, framed panel, c. 1920. Although these two sisters are a familiar image suggesting two paths facing Japanese culture, the boats are more unusual. The marooned wooden fishing boat, clipper ship (introduced from the West), and the modern steamship are perhaps an allegory for Japan’s past, present, and future.





Jintan fan advertisement, c. early 1930s. A breath-freshener manufacturer produced this fan as part
of an ad campaign that featured young women in trendy clothing. Takako
Irie (right) was a popular actress at the time.

Articles

Calibrating Hope
When Aesthetics Collide
The Ghost Dances
The Long Afterlife of Chairman Mao
I-House: A 75-year-old California varietal
Bears' Last Rose Bowl
With: 2005 Team's Unfinished Business
COVER STORY: Berkeley's Big Bang Project
Also: Dr. Atomic
Cover Page
Also: Real Ethics

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